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guzzle's 2002 Ford Powerstroke Diesel CPS R&R Changeout
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The CPS (Camshaft Position Sensor) is one of the weakest links on the Ford 7.3 Powerstroke engines. The sensor has a high failure rate and common symptoms include having the engine die while driving as if you turned the key off just to have the driver pull over and restart without any problems; periodic 'hiccupping' of the engine; complete failure of the CPS can kill the engine and will not let it restart.

I have read where Ford dealerships have been known to charge as much as $45 for a CPS at the parts counter, $650 parts and labor for the service department to change it out. You can do it yourself for a small fraction of that price.

Since the original black CPS has been recalled and is no longer available, DieselOrings.com has the BLUE CPS and GRAY CPS in stock. With just a few simple hand tools and a little know-how, you can do this and save some serious greenbacks. There is a different CPS for the 94.5-97 (98 E-series) (dark blue) from the CPS for the 99-03 (gray) 7.3L engines.

Got a question? Contact me on my DieselOrings.com webshop CONTACT PAGE





Parts and supplies to change out the CPS

NEW Camshaft Position Sensor 94.5-97 - Ford #- F4TZ-12K073-C
NEW Camshaft Position Sensor 99-03 - Ford #- F7TZ-12K073-B
O-ring lubricant - motor oil, moly grease, silicone grease, etc.
dielectric grease
Anti-seize lubricant


Tools to change out the CPS

10mm 6pt socket - 1/4" drive
3" extension - 1/4" drive
screwdriver or small pry bar


[Click on a thumbnail to see a larger image - - javascript must be enabled and popups allowed from this site]

diagram

First, locate the existing CPS, looking at the front of the engine, it is about the 10 o'clock position on the flywheel dampener.

CPS
from the bottom
CPS1
from the top

plug

The CPS can be accessed easiest from under the truck. Disconnect the electrical connector from the CPS by gently lifting on the locking tab and pulling the plug from the CPS.


bolt

Using the 10mm 6pt socket, make sure the socket fully engages the entire bolt head so you do not strip the bolt shoulders and loosen. Once the bolt is broken loose, it should come out easily.


pry

Swivel the timing mark indicator slightly out of the way and position a pry bar or large screwdriver between the CPS and engine block and gently pry the CPS out of its mounting hole. Once the o-ring clears the engine block, you should be able to reach up and remove the CPS.


new CPS

Prepare the new CPS for installation by lubing the o-ring with engine oil or a light coating of grease.


lube

Put a small amount of anti-seize lubricant on the 10mm bolt.


install

Insert the new CPS in the engine block hole and push it in as far as you can by hand. Do not worry if it does not completely seat. Using the timing mark indicator, rotate the CPS so you can insert the 10mm bolt and tighten.


dielectric

Use a small amount of dielectric grease on the watertight fins of the plug. Do not get any of the grease on the metal contacts as it will prevent electrical continuity and will not allow the CPS to work properly. Insert the plug into the CPS until the lock tab snaps into place.


Test drive the vehicle for proper operation.

There are many reasons that could cause stalling or a rough running engine, the CPS is only one. If you changed your CPS in an attempt to solve a stall or rough running problem and didn't fix the problem, don't throw the old one out as it is probably still good. Keep it as a spare in the glove box because you never know when one of these will give out on you, usually on the weekend when the dealerships and parts houses are closed. You will want to pick up a new o-ring becase the one that came out with the CPS will never seal correctly and if reinstalled, will begin to drip oil down the front of the engine. I have these o-rings made with genuine Viton available on my webshop for less than $2.00 each - DieselOrings.com.


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Click here to visit guzzle's Web Store. An affordable alternative to high priced Ford repair parts. We offer repair o-rings for fuel bowl leaks, HPOP leaks, oil and fuel rail leaks, seals, repair kits, turbo re-install kits and other parts you can't even get from a Ford dealer.